Monday, September 10, 2012

Insights.

So every time I speak with someone in America, I hear a request for a blog update (here it is!). Now, it should be known that I have started a number of different posts all saved on my computer but haven’t actually finished and posted them. This one is fresh.

The reason for my lack of completion of a blog post is three-fold. One, since moving to Armenia I’ve learned that my perfectionist tendencies are the biggest hindrance on many things in my life, one being my writing. Two, when it was told to me that my experience as a PCV was going to be like a roller coaster, I thought “duh.” Then I realized that this roller coaster goes beyond all theories of physics and the twists and turns have presented themselves at a pace that until now I did not know existed on the Earthly plane. That said, every blog post that I’ve begun seems ancient the next moment I attempt to finish it. Thirdly, this language balance is hard for me. My brain has had difficulty in switching from one language to another; most of my day is filled with extremely simplified terms and ideas and at a certain point, you have to let some of the more complex thoughts wash away in your mind and just hope that someone gets your gist. And this may tie in with my first reason, but when I write (in English), some of those more complex terms insist on putting themselves out there, only to find that they’re more jumbled in my brain than they used to be in the days of using one language in my life.

So. I’ve been living in my village for approximately one month now. The village is extremely small, my estimate is the size of a football field. We have a huge highway running through it and a twenty minute marshutni ride will take you into the middle of the capital city, Yerevan. There are definitely plusses and minuses to my situation, as everyone has them. There is a definite plus being so close to Yerevan. The city has all the fun things you would expect a city to have: bars, clubs, restaurants, cafes, shops, groceries, and the rumor is: even concerts. Additionally, at some point or another, every volunteer needs to visit the city and I am hoping (once I have my own place) that I can offer comfortable accommodations to those in need of a place to sleep. Another plus is that integration in a village is far, far easier than it would be if I were living in a larger town. There is no English spoken in my village, as there is no English being taught in the local school. Therefore, I have been speaking more Armenian and have had the opportunity to know a number of neighbors who have been extremely kind and welcoming. I have had many coffee breaks with a number of people who have done nothing but ensure my comfort and exude patience with my process of learning the culture and language. For it, I am extremely grateful.

Some of the not-so-fun points lie in that living in such a small place can be a bit claustrophobic at times. At this point, I still have another few weeks with my host family (who are AMAZING), but there is definitely something to be said in having control over things like cooking, eating, having company, etc. In addition, there is a lack of nature here. Due to my proximity to the capital city and that there are no roads leaving the village aside from the highway, I have no real forests to explore, mountains to hike, or bodies of water to enjoy. It never occurred to me that this would be the case, but alas. My positive spin on this aspect is that it will encourage me to visit other volunteers throughout the country, become comfortable with traveling, and embracing the opportunity to see what a beautiful country I live in.

There are other things completely unrelated to my site that have proven to be challenging. The thing that has been most difficult for me here has been the eating. The food is good but of course, there are times I miss my American meals. Having white bread three times a day, often with potatoes can be rough. The variety of vegetables that are typically in use here are: eggplant, tomato, and cucumber. Sometimes onions and greens are around, but not nearly as often as the aforementioned. In addition, it is an extreme challenge to say no when there is food on the table. And there is always food on the table. I am a pretty healthy eater and I still hear: “Why are you not eating?” or “Just eat a little” or “But it’s so delicious!” or “You don’t have to be hungry to eat this.” And beyond this, I have to say "no" or "no thank you" sometimes five, six, seven, eight times during the meal or coffee break. Never did I think that eating can be so exhausting! I am sure that things will change once I move into a house of my own which will likely be in about three weeks. I never was a big fan of cooking, but it’s something I now dream about! ;)

But the overall truth is, there are a million and one other things I could say but could never paint a full picture of my life in Armenia as a Peace Corps Volunteer. There are days where I feel like a total outsider who will never get a hang of the language or culture, then my host mom will say she’s baked a cake and we’ll have a great conversation over coffee about our dreams and what life is like in America and what life is like in Armenia and I remember why I’m here, and all of a sudden my heart is flooded with love and joy; like I could never imagine being any other place that right here, right now. I am so thankful for this challenge that has not ceased in showing me aspects of myself that are have been in desperate need for reformation, but that is for another blog post. I will say however, that I’ve learned there isn’t time to worry, just to take each moment as it comes and be thankful for it; this is going to be two years that I will reflect upon for the rest of my life. I’m going to live it to the fullest.

Wednesday, August 1, 2012

July's Awesomeness

So my idea of keeping up to date on this blog has put me to shame. SO MUCH HAS HAPPENED!

Let me go in order of fun things:

First, on June 25th, SITE ANNOUNCEMENT HAPPENED. This is when I learned that I will be living in Verin Ptghni for the next two years. Verin Ptghni (and yes, it is as difficult to pronounce as it looks) is a village of about 1,000 that borders the capital city, Yerevan. I am pretty excited about this placement for a number of reasons. First, the NGO that I will be working with seems to be a great fit for me. The organization is called Peace and Friendship Bridges NGO and consists of a group of young women who are dedicated to helping the community to flourish in many ways, especially by building youth empowerment. I am really excited about everyone’s eagerness to improve the community and encourage youth to do the same.

Myself and other volunteers eagerly awaiting our placement announcement


Shortly after site announcement, we had site visit. I had the opportunity to meet my new host family for four days. This is another reason why I’m excited about my placement. In the picture below, you can see my host mom and host sisters and my host dad. The gentleman to the far left is a relative but does not reside in the home. The only one not pictured is my new host brother.  Everyone was EXTREMELY welcoming, and I was touched by the kindness everyone showed. My last day there, we even had khorovats! Very delicious!

My new room (please excuse the mess!) 

My new host family

Living Room

My host sister picking apricots

Host family cat

Khorovats!


Next, on July 12th, I was invited to a Christening party. My host family’s extended family (our neighbor) had all three of their children baptized and had a huge party to celebrate. It was my first experience at a formal Armenian party and it was a lot of fun, despite the heat! There was tons of dancing and TONS of food. I have never in my life been served THREE MAIN courses, but it is the norm at an Armenian party!

The mayor toasting to the grandmother of the newly baptized children

Trainees and Host Country Nationals dancing

My host father and host "son"

Armenian dancing

I was very impressed by this gentleman's clarinet playing!


On July 14th, trainees had the opportunity to visit the Garni Temple and Geghard Monastery. Both places were extremely beautiful. The Garni Temple is the last Pagan temple in Armenia and is from the 1st century. It has (obviously) been reconstructed, but the view was absolutely amazing.

Geghard Monastery complex was founded in the 4th century and is known for its unique architecture. The church was dug entirely out of rock; construction began at the top of the mountain and the structure formed by digging and carving into the mountain itself. We had an hour to explore but it was barely enough time to see it all.

View from Garni

Garni Temple

Garni Temple

Geghard Monastery

Geghard Monastery

Chamber at Geghard- you can see the wax buildup from many years of prayer candles

View from chamber in Geghard

Prayer candles

Geghard



On July 17th, I was invited to celebrate a neighbor’s 14th birthday. Again, there was much dancing and three main courses of food were served. My favorite dish though was the “banjararen torte” or, vegetable cake. It was made of vegetables, but looked like a cake. Fantastic! The real cake though, was extremely tasty. Or, as they say in Armenia: shat hamov eh.

Banjararen Torte

Table's all set!

Gargeek giving a toast for the birthday boy

The REAL torte

Birthday boy and fam


July 27th was a very busy day. The trainees living in my training village put together a field day for the kids in the village. It turned out to be a great success! We played American games like the water-spoon game, had a three legged race, and had a water balloon toss. All in all, a lot of fun!

Volunteers and village children


On July 27th,I also visited Yerevan’s Cascade for the first time. This awesome structure is a gigantic stairwell beautifully adorned with exquisite landscaping and waterworks. At the base myself and other volunteers had the opportunity to witness and participate in traditional Armenian dance. It was a ton of fun! However, I must say that Armenian dancing is a lot harder than it looks!!

View from top of Cascade

A platform on a level at the Cascade

View from bottom of Cascade

Dancing!

Traditional Armenian dancing


Finally, on July 28th, I visited the Sevan Monastery and Haghartsin Monastery in Dilijan.  Again, both very beautiful.  Sevan Monastery is located on Lake Sevan, the largest lake in Armenia. The monastery itself resides on the lake’s peninsula and has an immaculate number of stairs, but once at the top, the view is hard to beat.

Haghartsin Monastery is the smallest of the monasteries that I’ve visited, but extremely beautiful. Dilijan is known for its vast forests and is an unmatched beauty.

Lake Sevan 

Gentleman providing music on the way up to the monastery

Sevan Monastery

Lake Sevan

Haghartsin Monastery

Fantastically beautiful tree at Haghartsin Monastery

Haghartsin Monastery

Haghartsin Monastery
So, it has been a BUSY MONTH!! Again, I apologize for the delay in posting, but will do my best to update again soon!

Sunday, June 24, 2012

One Month Down


I know many of you are wondering “What the heck is Ashley doing in Armenia? I mean, it’s been nearly A MONTH and she's hardly posted ANYTHING.” Well dear readers, I do apologize for my lack of contact. Needless to say, I have been all kinds of busy trying to learn how I will navigate the next two years of my life. A life that is filled with a plethora of new faces, a new language, a new alphabet, new work, new expectations, new ideas of normalcy, and new meshes of emotions.

I moved in with my host family on May 29th and was greeted with open arms. The village has a total population of about 520 and everyone lives very close. My host mother and father are extremely kind people who always ensure that my comfort level is high and my belly is full. And just a couple of weeks ago, I was greeted with three new faces in my household: my host mother and father’s daughter-in-law and her two sons, aged 10 and 3; they will remain here for the summer. There is a large diaspora of Armenians living in Russia (and elsewhere) due to lack of work. My host mother and father’s son is a part of that, and he is staying in Russia to continue to work.

There is hardly a time where there is nothing going on at home; my mom is continuously working in the garden, milking the cow, making cheese or juices, cooking, or doing dishes….or having a little coffee break. My host father raises bees and up until about a week ago, we had 40 beehives in our front yard. However, every summer they get taken to orchards near Lake Sevan and remain there until fall. It is my understanding that these (I believe) apricot orchards are very rich in floral life, so the honey production is increased dramatically. My host father sells his honey all over, which has gone as far as France!

My host mom making strawberry juice while her great-nieces watch

Michael-jan raving about the excellent coffee (it really is the best coffee I've ever had!)

Bees!!


We also have a plethora of vegetation growing in our yard: cucumbers, tomatoes, potatoes, strawberries, cherries, walnuts, beans, greens, and a variety of others. We also have a cow, about nine chickens, and four pigs. Needless to say, my host parents stay very busy ensuring all is well-kept.

While my host parents work on the farm and in the house, my daily life consists of waking up at about 7:15ish and having a hot shower (woo-hoo! I’m embracing this while I can) and a wonderful spread of food for breakfast. I’ve attempted to tell my host mom that I don’t need so much food for breakfast, but I always receive bread, butter, and fresh honey, cucumber tomato salad, fresh cheese, and some combination of meats, eggs, cream of wheat, and/or oatmeal. In addition, I have tea or hot cocoa. Then my host mother asks if I want coffee (which means coffee, chocolates, and any other fruit or pastries that are available). Usually, I don’t have enough time to enjoy this and head off to school.

There are three other PC Trainees in my language class. This class is held at the local school which is complete with seven rooms total, including the principal’s office.  We generally have class from 9AM-1PM six days per week. This means we’ve covered a LOT of information in a relatively short time period. My retention has been lacking in places, but overall I think I’m doing alright. After language, we all leave to our respective homes for lunch. Lunch is very much like breakfast but instead of the cream of wheats, eggs, and/or oatmeal, I get beans, potatoes, soup and/or cooked greens in addition to the standard table spread (bread, cheese, butter, honey, salad). After lunch, I usually have enough time to have coffee and sweets and engage (at some level) in conversation with whomever happens to be present; sometimes it’s just myself and my host mother, but other times neighbors visit and join in on coffee and conversation.

After lunch, all the trainees in my town travel to a nearby town where we meet up with others in my program (Community and Youth Development) for tech training. Each day, we have a different presenter provide us with information regarding governance and leadership, organizational management, or other information which may be useful to us once we move to site.

We then go back home for yet another meal and evenings are generally spent with family and friends, and for me, more studying and homework.

I’ve grown pretty accustomed to life here. We have a washing machine, so laundry is pretty easy, we have a toilet (which we have to bucket flush, but I’m not complaining), and like I said earlier, I have hot water for showers. My room is fantastic and complete with a comfortable bed, a coffee table and couch, and a vanity.

My bedroom

The main room in our home

The beautiful wood inlay floor


Tomorrow I learn where I will be placed for my permanent site. I am extremely anxious to learn about the town and organization that I will be spending the next two years of my life with. Thursday and Friday I will have the opportunity to meet my counterpart (the person whom I will be working with most closely throughout my service) and over the weekend, I will be in my new town with my new host family.


I know this post is extremely long, so kudos if you’ve got this far. I will definitely post again once I know a bit more about my assignment , site, and new host family. Shnorhakalutoon for reading and please stay tuned for more!

Sunday, May 27, 2012

Well, folks. I'm here! Armenia so far treated me very well, as has the Peace Corps staff and volunteers. My experiences have surpassed my expectations and am extremely excited about my next couple of years!

Friday we landed in Yerevan at 4:40AM. Needless to say, our group was extremely jetlagged and exhausted from travel, but with the adrenaline pumping through our veins, we were awake enough to visit the Zvartnots Cathedral ruins built in the 7th century. The energy surrounding the place was magnificent.




AND I got to see my first mountain EVER! And it wasn't just any mountain, it was Mount Ararat! It was wonderful to be treated to such a wonderful experience within our first few hours of arrival.




After our visit to the Zvartnots Cathedral ruins, we took an hour long bus ride through the mountains to our hotel. The day was spent resting and basic orientation. The hotel is a resort location complete with hot showers, a flushing toilet, three square meals a day, and heat!





Our first day of training was on Saturday. We began with a breakfast of bread, cheese, hard boiled eggs, and oatmeal. All was good, although Armenians LOVE salt. The oatmeal was a bit salty for my liking. All meals at the hotel have been served with bread and cheese. The cheese has an excellent consistency, but again, it's a bit salty for my taste. Other meals have included meat patties which to me seem to be kafta, rice, buckwheat, dolmas, and salads of all varieties, various vegetables and jams, and of course, yogurt. I'm very excited to see what meals will be served by my host family.

Training so far has consisted of medical, security, cross-cultural, and language classes. The classes have been informative and to some degree the content has been already covered in the massive amounts of reading material we have been provided. Yesterday however, we had a meeting with the CYD Tech coordinator. Community and Youth Development is the program in which I've been placed; those involved in the program will essentially act as consultants to various non-for-profits or non-governmental organizations. Tech training begins tomorrow and I am thrilled to begin training on what I actually came here to do!

Though we've been doing a lot of training, I did have time to go for a hike yesterday. The area in which the hotel is located is absolutely BEAUTIFUL!



I have thoroughly enjoyed my stay here at the hotel but alas, today is the day that I move in with my first host family in Nurnus! I am feeling a variety of emotions, including excitement, nervousness, and curiosity. With my limited language skills this will undeniably be an awkward experience, but one I will remember for a lifetime. I am excited to share with you all my experiences with my host family as soon as I can!